40's Dress Continued

Ok so I totally love what I did yesterday but looking closer at the placement of the ribbon there is no way that my bustline will work for this dress. All is good though because that is the bustline I want for my own version. Yes I love this dress so much I will making myself one. I'm thinking I'm only going to have the bow under the bustline for my version.  I could make a belt loop at the waistline if I decide to have two ribbons. Mine isn't important right now my customer's is and I need to stop thinking about different designs and make the design as closely as pictured as possible.

Today I lengthened the bodice using the same pattern I already created. I added 4.5" inches to the bottom so the seam will be at the natural waistline instead of the empire. I will have to adjust the skirt for the lengthened bodice.

I have the dress basically assembled. Here are some pictures of it pinned to the form. It is hard to see the pleats in the back because honestly I don't take good pictures. For the bottom of the skirt I think I'm going to place a small godet not positive yet I will wait until the dress is completely sewn before I decide if I want a fold over slit or the godet.

It sure is pretty so far.

Start on 40's Dress

In case you missed the intro on this you can click here to see the 40's dress I will be reproducing. Using silk on this dress there is no way I'm going to use that fabric for my pattern. I'm used a muslin to make my pattern. Here is the front and back. I think I may make the scallops a little rounder when I actualy cut the fabric but the pattern is good enough to start with.

For the back I've extended one side for the lap that I see in the picture. I got the pleats down pretty well. Just to be on the safe side though I'm going to sew the lining first. One for fit and two to make sure it is going to lay out as I think it should. I will hopefully post the lining later today. I'm cutting the skirt part now. I feel safe doing this since it is just a straight skirt. Plus it is a lot of cutting. The lining, the lace the fabric. By the time it is all said and done I've cut three dresses.

The original dress again.

I have most of it cut now. I decided to make the right back a little longer to be sure to get that fold right. Better to be too long than too short. Need room for both fold and the pleat. I used the muslin pattern piece I made on the lace then layered the silk and lining and cut them using the lace piece just because it was the closest in reach. I prefer to use fabric for patterns because it will stick better to the fabric you are cutting.

For the sleeves I'm going to let the lace do it's work for the scalloped edges.

I have most of the lining assembled. It is just pinned on the dress form but the skirt and bodice are sewn. Skirt still needs to be serged. I'm going to put it aside now and start working on the actual dress. I'm sure glad I made the right side a little larger then my first pattern. It is looking real good and I'm confident enough to actually sew the dress. First though I have to attach the lace to each piece. Lots of stitching to do. I hope to have all the lace sewn by the end of the night. Not too bad for a days work!

Here is the front of the lining. The ribbon is going to really look good at the bust line.

Bride has to leave in style

My newest custom order is for a new bride to slip out of her wedding dress. She selected a cute little cotton sundress, white of course. I have the dress part done but, being white we don't want the bride running off to her honeymoon showing off all her glory so I selected a real nice posh beige liner. Stay tuned and you will see the difference from the red you can see through on my dressform. She will not have to wear a slip with the lining I selected.

The first pictue is the dress fully assembled ready to attach the liner...maybe I should go now and sew the liner which is basically sewing another dress.

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I finished except one final press. Though I'm sure it won't looked very pressed after it has been shipped. Here is the side by side of the dress without the beige liner and the completed dress with the liner. Pretty amazing. A white liner would of helped but it still would of shown through some.

Here is what the dress looks like on the inside. Hard to tell which side is which. I didn't use the liner on the sleeves as I wanted the sleeves to be more durable. I could of lined the whole dress with the fabric but then it wouldn't be much of a sundress and it would of been heavy.

Well time to start cutting my 40's lace dress!

No a bodice can't bring me down

What is the saying...third time is the charm. I finally got the pleating the way I want for the Audrey style dress. It is only pinned and I'm taking out some of the bodice for a higher waistline but even with this inexpensive cotton the gather is turning out wonderful. Imagine when I use the real fabric and the overlay!  The neckline as I study the example more is a lot lower and the sleeves are off the shoulders so where you see the points is where the sleeves are going to attach.

I have two rush orders but as soon as I'm done I will be assemling the mock dress. The skirt is ready. The sleeves just need to be taken off failure number two then it is stitch it all together and one fabulous dress!

If you don't want to search for the two failures click here for my first attempt and here for my second attempt that did have potential but it wasn't good enough.

This Gown Turned Out HOT!!!

So it is finally done and it is a knock out! if I do say so myself

A new gown in the making

Ever have something in your head then when it's laid out you start getting self doubt. I love how this dress is coming about but now I think I'm taking the godets out and using the darker gray. The lighter gray was more transparent they are both gun metal grey chiffon but it don't look right! The bodice half may look black but it is a real dark gray. I'm going take out the godets and have them match the bodice. Oh yeah and I'm back to my old ways with dark colors. Give me a little break though I did make happy butterflies with green and yellow!

Next dilemma my half gray and half red bodice. Should I have used red on one strap and gray on the other. Here is a comparison.

I think I like it with gray not the mix and match. Don't you love the peek a boo. It's on the sides too. Here is a glimpse of the side and the back. Still have lots of work but this is a cool gown if I do say so myself!

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I took the godets out and match them to the darker gray. I am almost done just need to put a zipper in an maybe stitch where the openings are. I may also put some trim around the bodice not sure. Have to wait and show my sister to get her opinion. I can't wait to see what it looks like on. Hopefully I will post some more pictures tomorrow.

Bodice Blues Continued

Ok someone just send me over a pattern here! My bias tape gathering just isn't cutting it! I have the neckline down though. I'm going to take the elastic gathering out and do a set of pleats tomorrow.

I attached the skirt which is definitely full enough and will flare with the petticoat. Though tomorrow I will be taking it all apart.